Posts Tagged car for sale
Classic Cars For Sale: Scam Proof Techniques
Classic cars for sale are big business these days. There is no shortage of unscrupulous people who will take your money and vanish!
To be a knowledgeable buyer, the biggest chunk of your time will be spent in what I call the homework or prep stage. Probably 70 percent of your time will be spent studying classic car sale information, researching, and consulting with trusted friends or experts as to the authenticity and details of the car. After you have done your homework, the rest is a simple buying transaction. The more prepared a buyer, the smoother and faster the transaction.
What this means is you will need to invest the necessary time and money to thoroughly research what you are buying. It is all about the preparation. The one thing that rings true is either you are going to spend the time or money to investigate your potential purchase or you hire an expert to handle the transaction for start to finish.
Three Tips to Prevent Classic Car Scams
1. Know What You Want to Purchase
The top details for clarity are knowing what you are looking for, how much you have to spend, and how far you are willing to travel. Buying a vintage classic or muscle car is an exercise in search and process of elimination. Think of yourself as a modern day Sherlock Holmes. There is no use in looking at a show car if you can realistically only afford a project car or a weekend cruiser.
Because the internet has made our world smaller, do not waste a buyer’s time if they live halfway across the country and you are only willing to buy locally.
Check the NADA price guide so you have a ballpark of what the car will cost depending on condition. If the deal is too good to be true, (Are you really going to buy a 1969 Camaro in great condition for $5000?) then it could be scam. If you contact the seller and they insist on wiring a deposit, then you will know for sure it is a scam. Guaranteed you will never see the cash again!
2. Research Your Vehicle
Buying a classic car has become serious business. Classic cars for sale are now selling for what I paid for my first house. Would you buy a house with out having a house inspection? Probably not. The same goes with buying a muscle car for sale. Do your research. Get as much information as you can about the make, model, and year, and options of the car. The more educated you are about the car, the better you can negotiate if needed. And it also indicates to the seller that you know what you are talking about.
The internet makes it easy to do research. Join a forum that is focused on the type of car you are looking to buy. I know serious car collectors who will not buy a car unless they bring in an expert or guru to look at it first. If it is good enough for them, it is probably an idea you may want to consider. There nothing wrong about not knowing everything about a car. You definitely want to avoid paying for what looks like a highly desirable car only to find out that it is a clone.
Many people have saved themselves thousands and even hundreds of thousands of dollars just by paying an expert to inspect and document a car. If the car is extremely desirable and rare, the old adage of you can pay me now, or you can pay me later applies. Either hire an expert, or talk with someone you trust who can help you look at the car. Online car forums and clubs are great resources for this type of information.
3) Make Sure All Your Questions Get Answered
Do not be afraid to ask questions. Having clarity gives you the confidence to make a buying decision. This serves many purposes. Before you physically look at the car, contact the seller and ask the important questions.
Here are a number of key questions to ask the seller even if the details are not mentioned in the ad (This can double check the seller’s credibility that they really do know the details about their car). I find asking questions in categories is useful in organizing the information.
Engine, Drive Train, Options
* What is original to the car? (Engine, transmission, differential)
* Drive train specs (hp, engine size, rear axle ratio, transmission type)
* Options – A/C PS, PB, Vinyl roof, trim packages
* How does it run?
Body and Interior
* Interior color and condition?
* Body panels original, any accidents, frame damage, paint and body panel condition?
* Currently inspected and roadworthy or project restoration car?
* Mileage and any known mechanical problems?
Title and Price
* Does the car have a “clean” title?
* What is the asking price or at least a ballpark figure
How does it look?
* Can you get detailed digital pictures? If so, get A LOT so you can see every detail.
* Send to experts or post on a forum for opinions. The seller may think the car is all original, but may not know. An expert can spot the obvious.
Logistics
* Will they allow you to bring in an expert, or independent third party to
inspect and verify the car (If not, RUN from the deal. Do not walk)?
* Is there a place locally where you could arrange to put the car up on
a lift and do a visual and physical inspection?
This may sound like a lot of work, but it is fundamental for a solid transaction where you get exactly what you want.
The best piece of advice I can offer is to remember you are in control of the
transaction. If there is something that does not feel right about the car or the seller or anything related to the transaction, let it go. This includes being pressured by a seller to make a quick decision. If a deal is going to work, it needs to be natural and a win-win situation for both parties. There is normally something fishy going on, if a seller starts to hard close a deal. There is no use in trying to force a deal to work from either party.
Your Dream Car Finder makes finding, authenticating and delivering your dream car easy!
Tags: buy a car, car for sale, Cars, cars for sale, Classic, classic car, classic car sale, classic cars, classic cars for sale, for sale, muscle car, muscle car for sale, Proof, Restoration, Sale, Scam, TechniquesTo be a knowledgeable buyer, the biggest chunk of your time will be spent in what I call the homework or prep stage. Probably 70 percent of your time will be spent studying classic car sale information, researching, and consulting with trusted friends or experts as to the authenticity and details of the car. After you have done your homework, the rest is a simple buying transaction. The more prepared a buyer, the smoother and faster the transaction.
What this means is you will need to invest the necessary time and money to thoroughly research what you are buying. It is all about the preparation. The one thing that rings true is either you are going to spend the time or money to investigate your potential purchase or you hire an expert to handle the transaction for start to finish.
Three Tips to Prevent Classic Car Scams
1. Know What You Want to Purchase
The top details for clarity are knowing what you are looking for, how much you have to spend, and how far you are willing to travel. Buying a vintage classic or muscle car is an exercise in search and process of elimination. Think of yourself as a modern day Sherlock Holmes. There is no use in looking at a show car if you can realistically only afford a project car or a weekend cruiser.
Because the internet has made our world smaller, do not waste a buyer’s time if they live halfway across the country and you are only willing to buy locally.
Check the NADA price guide so you have a ballpark of what the car will cost depending on condition. If the deal is too good to be true, (Are you really going to buy a 1969 Camaro in great condition for $5000?) then it could be scam. If you contact the seller and they insist on wiring a deposit, then you will know for sure it is a scam. Guaranteed you will never see the cash again!
2. Research Your Vehicle
Buying a classic car has become serious business. Classic cars for sale are now selling for what I paid for my first house. Would you buy a house with out having a house inspection? Probably not. The same goes with buying a muscle car for sale. Do your research. Get as much information as you can about the make, model, and year, and options of the car. The more educated you are about the car, the better you can negotiate if needed. And it also indicates to the seller that you know what you are talking about.
The internet makes it easy to do research. Join a forum that is focused on the type of car you are looking to buy. I know serious car collectors who will not buy a car unless they bring in an expert or guru to look at it first. If it is good enough for them, it is probably an idea you may want to consider. There nothing wrong about not knowing everything about a car. You definitely want to avoid paying for what looks like a highly desirable car only to find out that it is a clone.
Many people have saved themselves thousands and even hundreds of thousands of dollars just by paying an expert to inspect and document a car. If the car is extremely desirable and rare, the old adage of you can pay me now, or you can pay me later applies. Either hire an expert, or talk with someone you trust who can help you look at the car. Online car forums and clubs are great resources for this type of information.
3) Make Sure All Your Questions Get Answered
Do not be afraid to ask questions. Having clarity gives you the confidence to make a buying decision. This serves many purposes. Before you physically look at the car, contact the seller and ask the important questions.
Here are a number of key questions to ask the seller even if the details are not mentioned in the ad (This can double check the seller’s credibility that they really do know the details about their car). I find asking questions in categories is useful in organizing the information.
Engine, Drive Train, Options
* What is original to the car? (Engine, transmission, differential)
* Drive train specs (hp, engine size, rear axle ratio, transmission type)
* Options – A/C PS, PB, Vinyl roof, trim packages
* How does it run?
Body and Interior
* Interior color and condition?
* Body panels original, any accidents, frame damage, paint and body panel condition?
* Currently inspected and roadworthy or project restoration car?
* Mileage and any known mechanical problems?
Title and Price
* Does the car have a “clean” title?
* What is the asking price or at least a ballpark figure
How does it look?
* Can you get detailed digital pictures? If so, get A LOT so you can see every detail.
* Send to experts or post on a forum for opinions. The seller may think the car is all original, but may not know. An expert can spot the obvious.
Logistics
* Will they allow you to bring in an expert, or independent third party to
inspect and verify the car (If not, RUN from the deal. Do not walk)?
* Is there a place locally where you could arrange to put the car up on
a lift and do a visual and physical inspection?
This may sound like a lot of work, but it is fundamental for a solid transaction where you get exactly what you want.
The best piece of advice I can offer is to remember you are in control of the
transaction. If there is something that does not feel right about the car or the seller or anything related to the transaction, let it go. This includes being pressured by a seller to make a quick decision. If a deal is going to work, it needs to be natural and a win-win situation for both parties. There is normally something fishy going on, if a seller starts to hard close a deal. There is no use in trying to force a deal to work from either party.
Your Dream Car Finder makes finding, authenticating and delivering your dream car easy!
Related posts
A Family Classic Car-the Case for the 4-door Sedan
Most classic car collectors (me included) have always maintained that a 4-door sedan wasn’t really a classic car. Usually the argument was about the styling and desirablility. A popular argument has alway been “just because it’s old
doesn’t make it a classic”. This is likely still true but all older cars that have been restored may be viewed as a classic car to some degree. It’s true that a coupe or convertible is
going to be more desirable than a 4-door in most cases, but later I’ll give you some reasons why a 4-door might be the way to go.
In this article classic cars will basically be a catchall name for all the cars that I’m discussing here, so bear with me.
Here is a brief trip through history to try and explain how the 4-door kind of got shoved aside as a classic car. If someone is restoring or making a street rod from the twenties, thirties or
forties car a 4-door is sometimes more desirable than a roadster or a coupe. This is due to utility being very important as a lot of owners like to cruise with their family and friends.
In 1949 there was a big change as most cars now came with rear seats and could carry four or more people in comfort, so there wasn’t much reason to choose the utility of a sedan over a coupe or convertible. With the utility factor gone buyers started buying classic cars based on desirability. This really kicked into high gear when the hardtops became the hot ticket in the
early fifties.
When the muscle car era began in 1964 almost no one looking for a muscle car ordered a 4-door because muscle cars were built on the premise of low weight and high horsepower. Today most
buyers would prefer a car from 1964 to 1972 to be a muscle car or at least have the appearance of one which of course excludes the 4-doors.
As I’m writing this I’m beginning to be a little more tolerant of 4-doors than I was yesterday. This started this morning as I approached a 1966 Chevelle Malibu from the rear and saying to
myself “that’s a good looking classic car” and then as I passed I said “too bad it’s a 4-door”. Shortly after the “different strokes for different folks syndrome” kicked in and I started
thinking, there must be some reasons why a 4-door would be a good car to own and by golly I thought of some. Even though a 4-door (even a 4-door hardtop) will never have style of a hardtop or
a convertible there are a number of reasons why they are a good deal. Here they are:
1. First of all, the price is going to be much less than a hardtop, sometimes as much as 50% less, mainly because they are less desirable.
2.Secondly many 4-doors are still original. A lot of them will be one or two owner cars and likely be low milage. Many will be passed down from parents and will be in very good condition. This is a plus as there will be less expense for restoration and you can put your own touches on it.
3. Third the utility is greater in a 4-door because of the back doors letting people get in and out easier plus there will be more leg room. Kids, wives and older people will appreciate this.
4. Fourth your insurance will likely cost less than the sportier cars as the insurance company will know that someone who buys a 4-door will likely be a safer driver because it’ll probably be a family car.
5. Fifth the operating cost most likely be less because most of the 4-door cars had smaller engines and most had automatic transmissions.
This in itself will keep the desire to hotrod down to a minimum which will save money in gas and parts.
6. Sixth and probably most important is the fact that the wife will be much more receptive to your buying a classic car if you can explain how the whole family can go cruising instead of just you and your buddy. I speak from experience.
There are likely more reasons for someone to buy a 4-door but I can’t think of them right now. If you have any let me know and I update this
article it the future.
Author: Don Levy My website at Classic Car Hunter has over a thousand classic cars and trucks, muscle cars, hotrods street rods and assorted cars for sale along with an area to list your car for sale.
There are also many articles like this about the classic car hobby.
My blog address is Classic Car Hunter Blog
Tags: 4door, car for sale, cars for sale, Carthe, Case, Classic, classic car, classic car collector, classic cars, Family, for sale, Insurance, muscle car, muscle cars, Restoration, Sedan, street rodsdoesn’t make it a classic”. This is likely still true but all older cars that have been restored may be viewed as a classic car to some degree. It’s true that a coupe or convertible is
going to be more desirable than a 4-door in most cases, but later I’ll give you some reasons why a 4-door might be the way to go.
In this article classic cars will basically be a catchall name for all the cars that I’m discussing here, so bear with me.
Here is a brief trip through history to try and explain how the 4-door kind of got shoved aside as a classic car. If someone is restoring or making a street rod from the twenties, thirties or
forties car a 4-door is sometimes more desirable than a roadster or a coupe. This is due to utility being very important as a lot of owners like to cruise with their family and friends.
In 1949 there was a big change as most cars now came with rear seats and could carry four or more people in comfort, so there wasn’t much reason to choose the utility of a sedan over a coupe or convertible. With the utility factor gone buyers started buying classic cars based on desirability. This really kicked into high gear when the hardtops became the hot ticket in the
early fifties.
When the muscle car era began in 1964 almost no one looking for a muscle car ordered a 4-door because muscle cars were built on the premise of low weight and high horsepower. Today most
buyers would prefer a car from 1964 to 1972 to be a muscle car or at least have the appearance of one which of course excludes the 4-doors.
As I’m writing this I’m beginning to be a little more tolerant of 4-doors than I was yesterday. This started this morning as I approached a 1966 Chevelle Malibu from the rear and saying to
myself “that’s a good looking classic car” and then as I passed I said “too bad it’s a 4-door”. Shortly after the “different strokes for different folks syndrome” kicked in and I started
thinking, there must be some reasons why a 4-door would be a good car to own and by golly I thought of some. Even though a 4-door (even a 4-door hardtop) will never have style of a hardtop or
a convertible there are a number of reasons why they are a good deal. Here they are:
1. First of all, the price is going to be much less than a hardtop, sometimes as much as 50% less, mainly because they are less desirable.
2.Secondly many 4-doors are still original. A lot of them will be one or two owner cars and likely be low milage. Many will be passed down from parents and will be in very good condition. This is a plus as there will be less expense for restoration and you can put your own touches on it.
3. Third the utility is greater in a 4-door because of the back doors letting people get in and out easier plus there will be more leg room. Kids, wives and older people will appreciate this.
4. Fourth your insurance will likely cost less than the sportier cars as the insurance company will know that someone who buys a 4-door will likely be a safer driver because it’ll probably be a family car.
5. Fifth the operating cost most likely be less because most of the 4-door cars had smaller engines and most had automatic transmissions.
This in itself will keep the desire to hotrod down to a minimum which will save money in gas and parts.
6. Sixth and probably most important is the fact that the wife will be much more receptive to your buying a classic car if you can explain how the whole family can go cruising instead of just you and your buddy. I speak from experience.
There are likely more reasons for someone to buy a 4-door but I can’t think of them right now. If you have any let me know and I update this
article it the future.
Author: Don Levy My website at Classic Car Hunter has over a thousand classic cars and trucks, muscle cars, hotrods street rods and assorted cars for sale along with an area to list your car for sale.
There are also many articles like this about the classic car hobby.
My blog address is Classic Car Hunter Blog
Related posts
Classic Cars Search Tips
There are no shortages of websites that show classic cars for sale. Between private seller classified ads, classic car dealer ads, auto auction ads, it can be almost overwhelming.
Where do you start? Here are some tips that will help sort through the process.
First, zero in on what car you are looking for, or at least in a range of years. For example, before I bought my “62 Corvette, I was looking between 1958 and 1962. That narrowed the field. Then after some time I decided I wanted the “62, and it got a lot easier!
Next, you need to know what condition of car you want. Show car, project car, solid driver, etc. Formal ratings range from Excellent to Parts Car, and each is priced accordingly.
So, if you want a “good” condition 1967 GTO convertible you would be getting a car that probably needed some work, mostly minor, had been either well maintained or had a decent restoration at some time (not recent). The car as it exists would be a solid driver and probably not too hard to get into “Very Good Condition” (near perfect, great driver).
With this information, next go to some of the many dedicated vehicle sites – just type in 1967 Pontiac GTO in Google and start reading. Once such site is http://www.gtoalley.com/. Tons of information on the standard options, VIN number decoding and things you should now.
Many of these sites have books for sale that have great detailed information that a lot of professionals don’t even know. Pick up one or two. It will be money well spent.
Based on the above, you are now armed and marvelous, as they say. You should have an idea form the various price guides what the relative values are for your car. If you have not posted on any forums looking for your car, now is a good time to start. You’ll get some good information.
The next decision is how far geographically you will search for your car. Some will only look in their back yard; others have no problems with distance. Decide your preferences and plan accordingly.
If you find a listing from a private seller, rejection is your friend. Sounds odd, but you need to quality him / her as a legitimate seller quickly or move on.
How much do they know about the car? You should be armed with VIN, Trim Tag and rear axel numbers so you can quickly determine how original the car is – or that the seller really doesn’t know.
Do you have a lot of pictures that show detail? If not, then ask for more. If the seller hedges, then they may not actually have the car. Digital cameras are cheap and there is no reason why several more can be taken. Their version of “good” may not be the same as Hemmings Motor News.
Does the seller have the proper documentation and authentication? For example, GM cars had Protecto-o-Plates, a metal credit card like plate glued into the Owners manual with VIN, Trim Tag & Drive train Decoding. When the car was taken in for service, the dealership would take an impression. How can they prove the car is authentic?
If the seller wants a deposit or he will sell the car to someone else, then that’s a red flag for me anyway. I understand having skin in the game, but sending someone a few hundred or thousand dollars site unseen is not realistic. If they car seems okay, then agree to have it inspected. Once you get the inspection, you can make a decision. First, you’ll know that the seller really has the car! Second, you’ll know what it is worth. It may cost $200 for you to walk, but better than buying the wrong car.
When contacting dealers, go through the same questions. They should have all the information at their finger tips. Once thing to realize is that many dealers purposefully do not update their inventory. They may show your car for sale and when you call – oops – it’ sold. They will offer to find one for you though. Your call. If you get a good feel it may be worth it. DO NOT enter into any exclusive agreement where you are obligated. Bad idea.
If using ebay – all the above applies. There are scams everywhere and you need to be careful.
Don’t want to spend the time dealing with the flakes and scammers? Let Your Dream Car Finder do the heavy lifting. We know cars, where they are, and can find and deliver your car to you with no hassles.
Tags: Auction, auto auction, car for sale, Cars, cars for sale, Classic, classic car, classic cars, classic cars for sale, credit car, for sale, Restoration, Search, TipsWhere do you start? Here are some tips that will help sort through the process.
First, zero in on what car you are looking for, or at least in a range of years. For example, before I bought my “62 Corvette, I was looking between 1958 and 1962. That narrowed the field. Then after some time I decided I wanted the “62, and it got a lot easier!
Next, you need to know what condition of car you want. Show car, project car, solid driver, etc. Formal ratings range from Excellent to Parts Car, and each is priced accordingly.
So, if you want a “good” condition 1967 GTO convertible you would be getting a car that probably needed some work, mostly minor, had been either well maintained or had a decent restoration at some time (not recent). The car as it exists would be a solid driver and probably not too hard to get into “Very Good Condition” (near perfect, great driver).
With this information, next go to some of the many dedicated vehicle sites – just type in 1967 Pontiac GTO in Google and start reading. Once such site is http://www.gtoalley.com/. Tons of information on the standard options, VIN number decoding and things you should now.
Many of these sites have books for sale that have great detailed information that a lot of professionals don’t even know. Pick up one or two. It will be money well spent.
Based on the above, you are now armed and marvelous, as they say. You should have an idea form the various price guides what the relative values are for your car. If you have not posted on any forums looking for your car, now is a good time to start. You’ll get some good information.
The next decision is how far geographically you will search for your car. Some will only look in their back yard; others have no problems with distance. Decide your preferences and plan accordingly.
If you find a listing from a private seller, rejection is your friend. Sounds odd, but you need to quality him / her as a legitimate seller quickly or move on.
How much do they know about the car? You should be armed with VIN, Trim Tag and rear axel numbers so you can quickly determine how original the car is – or that the seller really doesn’t know.
Do you have a lot of pictures that show detail? If not, then ask for more. If the seller hedges, then they may not actually have the car. Digital cameras are cheap and there is no reason why several more can be taken. Their version of “good” may not be the same as Hemmings Motor News.
Does the seller have the proper documentation and authentication? For example, GM cars had Protecto-o-Plates, a metal credit card like plate glued into the Owners manual with VIN, Trim Tag & Drive train Decoding. When the car was taken in for service, the dealership would take an impression. How can they prove the car is authentic?
If the seller wants a deposit or he will sell the car to someone else, then that’s a red flag for me anyway. I understand having skin in the game, but sending someone a few hundred or thousand dollars site unseen is not realistic. If they car seems okay, then agree to have it inspected. Once you get the inspection, you can make a decision. First, you’ll know that the seller really has the car! Second, you’ll know what it is worth. It may cost $200 for you to walk, but better than buying the wrong car.
When contacting dealers, go through the same questions. They should have all the information at their finger tips. Once thing to realize is that many dealers purposefully do not update their inventory. They may show your car for sale and when you call – oops – it’ sold. They will offer to find one for you though. Your call. If you get a good feel it may be worth it. DO NOT enter into any exclusive agreement where you are obligated. Bad idea.
If using ebay – all the above applies. There are scams everywhere and you need to be careful.
Don’t want to spend the time dealing with the flakes and scammers? Let Your Dream Car Finder do the heavy lifting. We know cars, where they are, and can find and deliver your car to you with no hassles.
Related posts